FAQ

There are two answers to that question, technically, but one thing is true regardless: I do not have a set schedule for stock drops, but there are two "styles" of restocking that I currently use.

The first is a Scheduled Drop. To learn when a drop is scheduled, you'll want to follow my Twitter/X. I tend not to give a lot of advanced notice, so there's usually only about 24-48 hours between an announcement and the actual restock. A restock does not guarantee that all of my models will be represented; less-popular models do not have priority over the faster-moving ones.

If you're a fan of one of a model I don't make often, please do comment on my Twitter/X threads to let me know you're on the lookout for a particular friend. Your other option is to wait for a Made to Order (MTO) slot drop, but MTO listings are not frequently posted and are highly limited when they are.

The second type of restock is a Stealth Drop. I cannot tell you when they will occur or what they will contain; this defeats the purpose of a secret drop, so please do not ask me any questions about my plans for them. These restocks can happen at any time and the contents/quantity can be highly variable. See the FAQ section about Stealth Drops for more information...as much as I can give, anyway. ;)

The Purchase Limit is currently INACTIVE unless otherwise stated on a specific listing (so you can mostly disregard this entry for now!). Usually, the limit will only be active for new releases or limited gift sets. The limit will be stated at the top of the listings, and also possibly on the site banner, so check before you buy.

So, (when it's active) what is the limit? In most cases, it's as simple as this: in a 24 hour period, you can only buy one toy of a given size/model combination. Duplicate items can only be purchased 24 hours after the first purchase.

(The limit may vary for certain listings, so check each one to be sure.)

If, for example, Kouya's Maw has a purchase limit on it, then you cannot buy two Kouya's Maws that are the same size, on the same day (but you can buy one of them, and then buy a second one 24 hours later if it's still there). The rule of thumb is that if the silhouettes of the items are identical, then they are duplicates. The firmness and color doesn't matter— even if they're wildly different in firmness and aesthetics, they'll still be considered duplicate items.

As you can see in the above example, the toys are the same size and model, so you can only buy ONE each day if this model has a Purchase Limit notice on its listing.

In the second image, the two toys are different sizes. Even if they have a Purchase Limit notice, you can buy both on the same day, because they do not have the same "silhouette" and are two distinct entities.

And finally, this last image contains two completely different toys, which is always a safe bet if you're confused about the "Same Model, Different Size = OK" rule . Even if one or both of these is flagged as Limited, you can buy as many unique models as your budget and adult responsibilities allow.

For items that don't specify a limit, you can buy as many duplicates of that item as you want. I may not know why someone wants 3 of the same thing at once, but if you seem to be legitimate, then that's nobody's business but yours!

Of course, suspicious order volumes and certain odd patterns will get my attention and may warrant a cancellation if I think you're a reseller or a company looking to steal designs, but the average, legitimate customer has nothing to fear. I can usually tell if an order might not be for a real customer.

When limits are active, I don't recommend getting "drop help" if you and your helper run the risk of purchasing duplicates of limited items. This can result in one or more order cancellations.

As stated in the Terms of Service, the purpose of the purchase limit is to prevent coordinated efforts from becoming disruptive to other customers. An order may still be cancelled even if two different people were doing the shopping, if it turns out that the items are being funneled to a singular place so that one person (or group) receives multiple limited items.

[Updated 4/10/2024]

[Updated 7/13/2024]

I occasionally put up Dealer's Choice Made to Order (MTO) listings. MTOs are highly limited both in quantity and scope, so if you are expecting a "full custom", our MTO offerings might not be what you're looking for. These are designed to give me a comfortable degree of freedom, while also allowing the customer to lock in some colors they know they'll enjoy.

MTO listings are not a guaranteed, consistent offering. I do not have a schedule for them, and if the process proves too disruptive to my workflow, I may discontinue them at any time.

Since I rotate limited color palettes with each round of MTOs, you'll want to jump on them right away if you see colors you really like! I do not take color requests on MTOs; the colors on the list are the only ones available at that time. Your preferred colors may not rotate back into the lineup for quite some time. Some may be discontinued entirely if I can't source that pigment anymore, or if that pigment proves itself to be troublesome.

Most MTO listings come with a "Wildcard" option, at no extra charge. If you select Wildcard, an additional surprise color (that may or may not be one of the listed colors) will be added to your toy. It could be used in equal, greater, or lesser amounts than your selected colors, so you may not want to choose this option if you're afraid of getting a wildcard color you won't like. I can't take requests on wildcard colors— a surprise is a surprise!

These types of MTOs all involve some level of surprise, since the design is Dealer's Choice. That means that although you select a couple locked-in colors, the pattern, placement, and quantity of each color will be up to me! I strongly recommend sticking with in-stock toys if this element of surprise doesn't appeal to you. I do not send pictures of MTO toys unless there's something wrong with the toy, or I'm uncertain about a result; you will not know exactly what the toy looks like until you receive it.

I do not consider trades unless you are a reputable, established toymaker (not just a hobbyist, but someone who is making toys as a primary business) and you're offering a brand new custom toy in exchange for another custom. If you're a maker and I follow you on Twitter, that's pretty much an open invitation!

Otherwise, no. Please do not try to offer me used toys or purchases from other makers in exchange for new toys.

Sorry, I am not looking for reviewers, partnerships, ad space, or anything else at this time (or for the foreseeable future). If I'm seeking a tester for a new type of product, I'll put out feelers on Twitter. At any other time, if I get messages asking me for free product —even if in exchange for a review or "exposure"— I will not respond.

Most likely. If you don't see a particular model in a drop, a mold might've broken, they were all too badly flopped to sell, or it simply sold out. I'm known to revamp models, but I've only discontinued one (Rei) and even that one was replaced by the similar model, Seiryuu. Some have been in an extended state of revision for various reasons but I intend to bring those back when I am able.

If it's on the Models page and there is nothing like "DISCONTINUED" pasted across it, then it's still around! 

I'm humbled by the interest in my products, but unfortunately, I cannot offer wholesale toys or any other sort of retail partnership. This is a bit too big of a commitment for my little one-person workshop.

In short, no. Lately, I've begun trying to post a few more pours as I work to help give you an idea of what might be in an upcoming drop. I still like my occasional surprises, though, so I'm unlikely to ever make a whole drop completely transparent.

Personal preferences aside... from a practical angle, pre-shop is not as simple (on the backend) as one might think. It requires quite a lot of extra work and I'd rather expend my efforts elsewhere.

[Updated: 4/10/2024]

If such an app presents itself on Shopify, I'll definitely consider it! Unfortunately, I have zero coding knowledge of any sort, and don't particularly want to commission such a thing, as it will require maintenance I'm unable to personally perform.

I would be placing some major limits on a cart hold system (IE only a 3-minute hold), as I don't want people to be able to easily juggle product for hours while they make decisions, but I'd like something that allows people to grab one or two big items and the accessories they want and get out efficiently with them.

I can foresee potential issues with bots, so I may change my mind in the future if people can't behave themselves and resort to unfairly using bots against regular customers.

Almost certainly not, for the foreseeable future. There are some exceptions, such as the Large Kraken Egg, but I don't have plans to put Large/XL toys in my main lineup. I have neither the space nor the stamina for them.

I'm just one person with zero assistants, and not a super strong one either. Besides the physical impossibility of managing large toys (it's hard enough to extract some of my bigger mediums!), they represent a large (literally) financial risk and are outside of my primary demographic. There are plenty of other excellent stores that sell big toys, so I'd like to stick to what I'm best at, and what I feel safest producing.

It's possible that I may produce SOME of my toys in a slightly larger size, but I wouldn't recommend holding out hope for it. It's so low a priority as to be nonexistent and I don't want to promise something that is so unlikely to happen in any reasonable timeframe.

Exactly what it sounds like: it's an unannounced restock that can occur at any time, and it can have a totally random assortment of items in it.

I realize that for some customers, the unpredictability of this restocking method is stressful, but it is not intended to cause distress or "FOMO". To the contrary, a stealth drop is supposed to reward the occasional "check-in". Anyone who happens to stumble upon a surprise restock will have significantly more time to peruse the items in a far less stressful environment than a typical high-pressure rush at an announced drop.

Stealth drops are also intended to reduce buyer's remorse by giving customers a chance to think about whether they actually want the item, rather than feeling compelled to grab it as quickly as possible, and/or reschedule their entire week simply to stalk a particular toy and hope to compete against potentially dozens of other customers. Scheduled drops can be so competitive that you do not have time to read listing details or consider how much you want the item. By contrast, you might be the only person to notice a stealth drop for a good amount of time, potentially for a couple hours (until someone blows the whistle on it, that is).

Please do not inquire about the time or contents of stealth drops. I can't answer such questions, or it's not a stealth drop.

As of the time I'm editing this article (4/10/2024), there are no stealth drops being planned for the immediate future. These were more of a necessity when product was moving faster than I could restock it. Now that the economy has slowed, so has the pace of normal drops, and stealth drops are not currently needed.

Toy designs that have been "lockered" have been removed from active production and stored. This is not the same as a toy being Discontinued/Retired — it may come back for special occasions! For instance, if Valentine's Cock is lockered, it's likely that he will make a reappearance for Valentine's Day, or for a werewolf-themed Halloween event.

Because my work space is limited and can't simply be expanded at will (but the number of models is inevitably going to grow over time) I will occasionally need to place under-performing models in the locker. I'll try to give warning when I'm about to move a model into the locker so that last-minute purchases can be made, but this might not always be possible if the mold and/or master print have become damaged. I usually won't make a brand-new mold, master, or both if I'm on the verge of removing it from production.

There are three primary firmnesses, and one that you'll see rarely.

0020 (SuperSoft): Super squishy, a bit tacky, and comparatively fragile. It sort of feels like those sticky hand toys you get from capsule machines. Mainly used for penetrables, sometimes used for thicker insertable toys. Be gentle with toys in this firmness, as they're the most prone to being torn or dented out of all the firmnesses. SuperSoft toys often won't stand up on their own and can be more difficult to insert, as they will "wiggle" away.

0030 (Soft): Very plush and easily compressed, like a fresh gummy candy. An excellent choice if you want to tone down a toy's texture, or if the toy has a lot of girth and is dancing on the edge of being too big for you. It's more forgiving than Medium, but holds itself up slightly better than SuperSoft and is a little less tacky. Sometimes Soft toys will lean sharply or not stand up on their own, but they support themselves better than 0020 toys.

0050 (Medium): Still squeezable, plenty bendable, but noticeably firmer than 20 or 30. Kind of like stale gummies, or maybe a flexed muscle. Details and texture will be more easily felt in this firmness and it will compress/bend less in use, making it an all-around good, multipurpose firmness. Often the preferred firmness for slimmer toys, or any item intended for anal use, since it doesn't squirm away as much as the softer toys.

10A (Firm): Not a firmness I typically use for actual toys; it's mainly the firmness of my molds, but sometimes I'll pour small toys in it. Textures are super pronounced in 10A. It's closer to a pencil eraser in firmness, having very little give and almost no squish. While you can still flex/bend it, it's far more rigid than 0050.

Please see the Toy Care page for a detailed guide on maintaining your toys.

Pigment Terms

GITD: Glow in the Dark. After being charged under a strong light (ideally sunlight), a GITD toy will emit a glow for varying amounts of time according to the type and quantity of pigment, as well as duration of charge. Certain colors glow weakly for a short time, others might glow for hours. These colors also usually flouresce brightly under blacklights. Do not store GITD toys in direct sunlight, as it may have a negative impact on both the color of the silicone and the ability of the pigment to glow. GITD is non-toxic and not radioactive. No longer in use in my products, unless otherwise stated, due to complications with the flop rate of these pigments.

UV: Generally neon colors that flouresce under blacklight. They do not glow when not under blacklight, but they're still pretty bright! Non-toxic, and not radioactive, even if it looks like it came straight out of a kaiju movie.

Thermochromic: A type of pigment that changes color at certain temperatures. Toys with this pigment should NEVER be boiled, left in sunlight, or left in any place at or above their activation temperature, or the color will "burn" and lock into one state instead of changing back and forth. This won't impact the usage of the toy and isn't eligible for refund. Non-toxic.

Cosmetic Pigment: Non-toxic pigments which are rated specifically for use on the human body, usually found in makeup, soap, or bath bombs. These make up the bulk of our pigment library.

Chameleon/Duochrome: Pigments that color-shift depending on lighting and angle. The shift may be very obvious, or hardly detectable. May be mentioned only because it can cause a misunderstanding that the listing image does not match the photo, due to the customer's lighting conditions and viewing angle being different from the photo booth.

Interference: A mica pigment that can be added to other pigments in order to create a sheen of a specific color; these pigments are colorless on their own. IE "Interference Blue" will change black-pigmented silicone into something that appears extremely dark blue when light strikes it.

Glitter/Sparkle: Flashy mica particles which are larger than typical pigment particles, but not as large as craft glitter. We do not use craft-grade glitter due to the risk of it emerging from a toy. May be mistaken for "dirt" because at certain angles, the particles are dark. When the item is turned, the particle will shimmer.

Metallic/Pearlescent: These terms are used somewhat interchangeably to refer to non-flat colors that have a sheen to them and will sometimes form interesting "folds" and patterns even on a solid-color toy. "Metallic" is often used for toys with bolder flash and larger particle sizes, while "Pearlescent" usually refers to a softer, subtle sparkle that might not be as obvious.

Listing Details

Flop: A toy that has imperfections which may alter the appearance, care requirements, longevity, or performance of the item, but will not render it unusable or unsafe if properly cared for. Generally discounted according to the severity of the issue. See the FAQ question specifically about flops for more information.

Notes: If a listing has "Notes" on it, these are just a bit of extra information about a particular toy or model, to alert customers to a characteristic of the toy that might be mistaken for a flop. Some molds have consistent minor imperfections that do not receive the Flop designation or discount, or the notes may alert you to special care requirements. This section will often, but not always, be used to note if a toy has been observed to have any larger-than-average pigment flecks.

Painting/Painted Details: Refers to the process by which thickened silicone is "painted" inside of a mold to achieve color patterns that are not possible via the usual means of pouring in the liquid silicone. This is NOT the same as painting with actual paint, and should never be performed on a toy that has already been cured. Anyone who is adding on extra paint to a toy's surface after pulling it is using techniques that are neither durable, nor safe for internal use.

House Color: A set, named color pattern which may recur during certain holidays, seasons, or events. They do have some variation due to the nature of the material, but any two toys poured in the same House Color will use an identical color set. The same colors go in, but something else might come out!

Natural Color: A set, named color pattern specific to a particular model, IE "Skoll's Natural". The color might be found on other models, but is most consistent on the model for which it was designed.

Dual Firmness: The toy's parts are different firmnesses, IE it has a shaft in 0050/Medium and a base in 0030/Soft. Check the listing to make sure which part is which firmness.

Anomalous or Multifirm/Variable Firmness: Designation given to a toy that is composed of multiple firmnesses, but they didn't stay where they were put and have blended into something other than what went into the pour. Essentially a "failed" Dual Firmness toy, though this "failure" sometimes approximates a "cored" toy from other shops and can feel really interesting! Check the notes on any toys like these, to see my (highly subjective) opinion on what each part feels like.

Color Pattern Terms

Fade: A gradient between two or more colors. An "ideal" fade is a smooth transition from one color into another, but silicone doesn't always cooperate in such a way, so a faded toy may have some spots that don't blend completely.

Marble: Two or more colors in a swirled or blotchy pattern. The exact appearance of a marble varies tremendously and is strongly affected by firmness and color. They are not possible to replicate precisely, as the patterns fall differently every time.

Underbelly Marble: A specific type of marble where the colors are not evenly mixed into each other, and each of its composite colors are distributed in a more dominant fashion on either side of the toy (IE a topside that is predominantly black, while the opposite side is predominantly white).

Transitional Marble: A specific type of marble which gradually transitions from one color to another, similar to a fade, but without a smooth blend. Sometimes a toy poured as a marble will come out looking like a fade by accident, but typically there is an obvious difference.

Solid: A toy which is a single color.

Split: A coloration in which the base and shaft of a toy are different colors, or where the toy is poured in clean "bars" or layers. A "true" split has a totally straight, clean line between the colors, but because this is a riskier and more time-consuming type of pour, you will more commonly see a "messy" split that is safer and more secure.

Highlight/Wash: A layer of pigmented silicone which is used to coat the inside of the mold before finishing the rest of the pour. Results in a toy with accentuated details which might otherwise be less visible.

Drip: A variant of the Highlight technique which covers only part of the toy instead of the entirety, so that it looks like a color is dripping from the tip of the toy, down toward the base. Often used to simulate a "sloppy seconds" look on a toy.

Production Terms

Pour (used as a noun): In its raw form, silicone has a honey-like consistency and only achieves a solid state after Parts A and B have been thoroughly mixed. Because this liquidy substance is poured from a cup into the toy mold, people will often refer to a particular toy or pattern as a "pour". Ex: "Wow, that rainbow pour is incredible!"

Mold: The object that liquid silicone is poured into, which holds it in the appropriate shape until the liquid cures into a solid. May be mentioned because if a specific mold has an inherent flaw, then ALL copies of a toy pulled from this mold will have that same flaw. May also be mentioned because makers have a finite number of each mold on their shelves, and can only pour as many toys as they have molds available.

Mold Release: In order to remove a silicone toy from a silicone mold, the mold must be sprayed with Mold Release, or else the mold and the toy will be permanently fused. When ordering from any shop, it's possible you might receive an item that still has residual mold release on it. This is a major reason why all new toys should be washed before you use them.

Cure: The process by which silicone changes from a liquid to solid state. A toy has to be cured for a certain amount of time before it is solid enough to be removed from its mold.

Cure Inhibition: What happens when the process of curing is interrupted (sometimes permanently) or slowed by something, such as an incompatible material that acts as a contaminant.

3D Print/Printing: Refers to the process by which the original sculpture of a toy is produced by a machine, may be mentioned because the process is imperfect and a final product might show signs of its origins as a machine-created object. This does NOT refer to the products you are purchasing directly; there is no such thing as a 3D printed silicone toy, and no 3D printed object should ever be directly used for sexual purposes. Makers create a mold of a 3D printed object, then pour liquid silicone into the mold in order to create the final product.

Post-Processing: Raw 3D prints usually have imperfections that require sanding and coating to achieve the smooth finish that is desired for the final product. This is what that stage of refinement is called.

Delamination: The separation of silicone from itself; can manifest as "peeling", and usually occurs along obvious, clean lines. This is an error that can occur in highlighted, painted, or split toys (or toys with silicone inclusions) if something goes wrong in production and each part of the pour does not fuse completely. This can be a serious issue, particularly if it occurs along a split. Any toy with delamination at a split point (IE shaft/base), or along the usable surface, should not be used and the vendor should be informed.

[Updated 2/6/2023]

It's a bit of a misnomer, but a "flopped" toy isn't a failure, and it's not rendered nonfunctional by its irregularities. The "flop" label is applied when something unintended occurs and might result in a toy that needs special care, or has characteristics that I feel the customer might want to know about before purchasing.

Since no two flops are exactly alike, there isn't a standard "this flop gets this discount" policy. I determine the discount on a case-by-case basis and apply it directly to the toy's price. Flop discounts are not given after purchase, unless I have determined that there was an additional undisclosed, discount-worthy issue with a toy after it's brought to my attention.

Please note that I do not necessarily discount for the same "issues" that other vendors might. Of particular note is the "beauty mark" or "choppy base"; while some vendors will discount for an aesthetic aberration, I usually don't unless I think there's a good chance that this mark or base cut might directly or indirectly cause damage to the toy. I also don't automatically discount for an air bubble unless it meets certain criteria, but I generally do make note of them anyway.

If you purchase a flopped toy, or one with notes alerting you to an anomaly or a fix that could cause the toy to be classified as a flop later in its lifespan, it may become necessary for you to do small repairs. Please see the FAQ article on repairing damaged items for information on how to fix minor issues — it's a handy skill to have if you're a fan of silicone toys, especially if you have a soft spot for the flopped fellows!

The firmness in a toy's listing is the shore firmness number given by the silicone manufacturer. If I have a bucket that says 0050, then any toys made with that silicone are designated 0050.

The dimensions of a toy might make it feel subjectively firmer than a differently sized toy. There are numerous other factors that might also affect the firmness and result in a different reading if one were to use a durometer, including but not limited to: altitude, temperature, pigment composition, quantity of pigment, and other manufacturing inconsistencies I cannot control.

While I have rarely mislabeled a toy's firmness (generally I catch this before I ship the toy), the minute firmness differences some people mistake for an error is simply a consequence of environmental conditions and inconsistencies in the supplier's product. If your 0050 toy "feels" a bit firmer than that, you didn't mistakenly get a 10A toy; you have a 0050 toy subject to the usual variations. Consider the listed shore firmness as a guide, not a precise measurement.

Firstly: DO NOT OPEN THE TOY BAG until instructed. Opening the bag means you've accepted the item and there are no exceptions; there is a sticker on the bag specifically instructing customers not to open until a check has been done. In most cases, I can no longer determine the source of an issue once the bag is open, since it has been exposed to conditions within the customer's home and there are too many variables for me to tell what happened.

Secondly: take the clearest possible photos of the bagged item and send them to me. If there is actual damage or a manufacturing defect that is my fault, I will compensate accordingly. If I have not made an error, and if the package didn't arrive damaged (if it IS damaged, see the shipping section of the FAQ for how to file damage claims), no compensation is given.

You may be asked to return the toy for further inspection or destruction, if a potentially dangerous defect is found and the toy needs to be removed from circulation. A full refund for both the item and all shipping charges will be issued once the item is received and the issue confirmed to be a manufacturing defect.

The answer depends on the circumstances.

If I actually sent the entirely wrong item:

Do not open the bag, and contact me immediately to let me know about the mix-up. The options I offer you will depend on the status of the item you received, and whether or not I still have the correct one in my possession.

Please, please, PLEASE do not open an item if it's obviously not the correct one! There may be another customer who had their heart set on that item and is also a victim of an accidental switcheroo. If all the items remain sealed, there's a chance that they can be exchanged and go to their proper homes. That's actually happened before, and everyone ended up happily united with their toys! But if one person opens their item despite knowing it's the wrong one, the outcome will not be nearly so ideal.

If I sent the correct item but the colors "look off":

There's no way I can guarantee that a person's perception and my photos will be a 100% match; I take the best photos I can with the equipment and limited experience available to me, but the best pictures in the universe don't help when people's eyes and screens vary so greatly. Photos are provided as a general idea of the item's colors and overall condition, they are NOT a guarantee of absolute accuracy.

Subjective opinions about the item's color are not considered refund or discount-worthy, as the item's color has no effect on its actual function.

Depends on the issue and whether it was documented. You're always welcome to contact me if you think there's something genuinely wrong with the product that might pose a health risk, or cause the toy to sustain damage under circumstances that a "normal" toy would be able to handle. However, many "issues" are not what they may seem, and oftentimes the situation is misdiagnosed unnecessarily, so please remain patient and calm when contacting me.

Large, Tangible Pigment Fleck:

Usually noted in the item description and discounted already. If you think I missed one, contact me before opening the bag. Deep, intangible freckles or silicone fragment inclusions are often not discounted if they are fully encapsulated and unlikely to emerge unless the owner picks/cuts the silicone, or subjects it to unusual amounts of stretching (beyond what the toy experiences during intended usage).

Small Pigment Freckles:

Normal, not discounted if encapsulated and of similar size to "glitter" particles. Often noted if they are very close to the surface and have the potential to come out with minimal disturbance. Not noted if unnoticeable/barely noticeable "at arm's length", with or without a headlamp; see FAQ on this specific subject for more information.

Air Bubble:

Air bubbles under the base not usually discounted unless numerous and severe (rare). If on another part of the base, may be discounted. If on usable/shaft portion, almost always discounted, depending on location and number of them.

Bubbles often get confused with "skin tags". A surface air bubble looks like a tiny ice cream scoop for ants was used on your toy, leaving a smooth concave impression. A bit of flashing that sticks out from the surface usually comes from the mold and can generally be carefully pinched off if it's bothering you (at your own risk; user modifications void any possible discount/refund). Such tags usually don't receive a discount, as they pose no threat to you or your toy.

Fuzz, Silicone Shards, Etc ON Toy:

Common, not discounted. While my toys are bathed and meticulously checked before being bagged, silicone and plastic bags both generate a ton of static and attract every imaginable type of dust, fuzz, and of course, small shards of silicone clippings. Always wash a new toy regardless of an individual maker's cleaning policies, just to make sure it's extra clean!

Something IN Toy:

Rare - if there is something embedded IN the toy, especially if it's tangible and hard, let me know. The object is more likely resting on top of the toy or stuck on it thanks to static (a common offender is little "shards" of silicone clippings that like to hitchhike); if the item is bagged and you can't tell for sure, message me first, and don't unbag it until directed to do so.

Choppy Base Cut:

I don't have the world's most stable hands, so it's not uncommon for the cut of the base to be imperfect (typically it looks fine when the toy is sitting flat on a surface). Normally, I don't discount this unless it's particularly sloppy, in which case it will already be noted in the item listing.

While the "master sculpt" for each toy is 3D printed in high definition, 3D printed objects aren't flawless. They still need to be sanded and coated to eliminate support marks, printing striations, and other aberrations. Imperfections can occur at any time between post-processing, molding, and pouring. Every detail, whether intended or not, will be faithfully replicated when a mold is made of the master sculpt, and will be passed on to every toy made with that mold.

Sometimes you'll find small divots, "nicks", tooling or sanding marks, bumps, a slight run or other texture anomaly in the coating, all of which translates in perfect detail to the final silicone piece that's now in your hands. All of these things are a normal part of the process. It's evidence that your toy was handmade with love and care, not produced by a robot.

Please keep in mind that Phoenixflame Creations is not a giant commercial enterprise with expensive factory equipment. It's not even a small, dedicated team of specialists. I'm literally one random artist operating out of her home office. You wouldn't know me from any other person on the street, and I don't have any more superpowers of perfection than the next guy. I don't have endless money or resources either, so I'm certainly not going to cull a toy for having aesthetic attributes that don't affect its primary function or longevity.

So, while I won't promise perfection —something which is not possible for me to do, given that perfection is both subjective and impossible— I will always do my best to ensure that you get a functional work of art that I've put my heart and soul into. 

No, the pictures on the listing are the only ones that are available. Toys are washed and bagged after their photo session. I will not rip open a bag to take more photos, since I would then need to replace the bag, re-wash, and dry the toy all over again.

There are several types of pigments I use to color toys, all of which are non-toxic and come in two forms: powdered pigments (usually mica) and specialized silicone pigments which have a paint-like consistency. Where possible, they are also cosmetic grade, meaning that the raw pigment is safe for contact with the human body even if it is not encapsulated, such as it is in my toys. Certain types of pigment, such as Glow in the Dark, are not specifically cosmetic grade, but they are safe nonetheless and are not radioactive.

I do not use craft glitter in any of my products. Any references to "glitter" are describing a type of larger-particle mica, rather than a plastic or metal flake material.

See the FAQ section on shop terminology for more information on the specific types of pigments you might see in my products.

The good news is, you don't need to toss out a beloved toy if it has the "right" kind of damage! In situations where a refund or replacement isn't possible, it pays to know how to repair your toys, especially if it's a collection you take seriously. Anything can happen, even if you're super careful, so a "Dildo First Aid Kit" might be handy to keep around.

Before we get started, some important disclaimers:

The contents of this page are suggestions only, based upon our personal methods and experience. Phoenixflame Creations is not responsible for the results of customer repairs, which may vary. We cannot refund for customer-end modifications, whether intentional or unintentional, nor are we responsible for any medical situations that may arise from attempting to repair a toy, or from using a repaired toy. The customer is responsible for reading all relevant safety sheets on the products suggested in this guide, and is likewise responsible for their own handling of potentially hazardous materials. Phoenixflame Creations does not manufacture these repair products, nor can we give personalized medical and safety advice for their use.

Repairs are considered a viable suggestion per our TOS; if we are unable to issue a replacement or refund, but still believe the item can be safely used, we will refer you to this page for instructions to fix your item instead. This same suggestion may be given on individual toy listings for flops and other such items with notes regarding repairs that have been made, or could potentially be required if a suspected flop issue (IE pigment freckle emergence) manifests for any reason.

With that out of the way, on to the repair guide!

Issues That Cannot/Should Not Be Repaired:

• Abnormally sticky or molten toys as a result of exposure to incompatible chemicals, such as inappropriate lube, inferior toy materials, improper storage containers, or the wrong types of soaps. Throw these out, as they cannot be saved by any known means, may injure the user, and will likely damage any other toys they come in contact with.
• Widespread delamination over a large surface of an insertable toy
• Any toy where the insertable portion has been separated from the base/structure that would ordinarily make it anal-safe. Theoretically, an insertable toy that has been sliced in half MIGHT be "technically" repairable for vaginal use, or just to keep it on display, but absolutely should not be used for anything else, nor should it be sold to another person secondhand.
• Any other large, especially horizontal, cut to an insertable portion of a toy, that could conceivably rip wider and cause the item to break in half in a way that would result in it being lost in a Bad Place Requiring Medical Intervention.

You Will Need:

• Sil-Poxy*
• Isopropyl Alcohol ("IPA"), 90-99% preferable, lower percentages can work in a pinch but are less ideal
• Lint-free paper towels, or whatever applicator you have that won't shed fibers when you use it to apply IPA to your toy
• Disposable mixing sticks and/or toothpicks. Can also use plastic spoons or palette knives, as long as it's smooth and has no jagged edges.
• Ventilated space and/or respirator, if you are sensitive to odors and/or want to be safe as possible. Sil-Poxy has a powerful salt and vinegar chip smell when it's still in "raw" form, and IPA shouldn't be used recklessly, as it's a potent chemical.
• Gloves (IMPORTANT: this is for your own safety only, if you have sensitive skin. Most types of disposable medical gloves are made of materials that inhibit or degrade silicone, so do not let them touch uncured Sil-Poxy, or it may remain uncured permanently). DO NOT use latex for anything involving silicone, cured or uncured.

*Can be found re-branded with a different name in a smaller, cheaper tube, sold by a certain Very Large Fantasy Toy Company having to do with draconic entities of a naughty persuasion. Legally, I don't think I can name them, but they're the household name in this industry.

Preparing the Item for Repair:

Regardless of the type of damage, first thing you'll want to do is sanitize your item. See our Toy Care Guide for cleaning methods, if you're not already familiar. You'll want to be as thorough as possible, so ideally use the bleach method OR boiling method (never both at once!), and give it a regular wash as well to ensure there is no residue. We're trying to get it as close to "Factory" Clean as possible before we repair.

Once the item is clean and dry, dispense some isopropyl alcohol onto a lint-free (or at least low-lint) cloth, and gently rub it onto the spot you want to fix. If it's a slice or hole, make sure it gets inside, and that it dries completely before moving on to your repair.

Outside of this scenario, we do not suggest cleaning toys with isopropyl alcohol, as IPA is a solvent for silicone in its raw form and may cause damage to your toy if frequently exposed, or submerged for an extended period of time. Its purpose here is to be a degreaser and ensure the best possible bond between the Sil-Poxy and the toy.

Repairing Holes:

In the event of an emerging pigment freckle, silicone fragment, or any similar incident that involves leaving a small open pocket behind, you'll likely want to fill this hole, otherwise it will be difficult to clean completely and may trap bacteria. Air bubbles are usually shallow and clean and wouldn't require a patch, but emerging pigment can be messy and must be cleaned before the toy is used again. Our pigments are non-toxic and shouldn't do harm, but you should still discontinue use until this issue is repaired.

Use the aforementioned cleaning protocol first. If any pigment (liquid OR mica powder) remains, make sure it is completely cleaned out of the pocket and surrounding toy area, using soap/water and IPA as necessary to get rid of it. The liquid pigment can smear surprisingly far even if it's a tiny freckle, so you may be surprised how much (gentle!) scrubbing is required before it finally goes away.

Once the area is clean and completely dry, open your Sil-Poxy and squeeze out a tiny bit (a little more than you think you need to fill the hole) onto a popsicle stick or other smooth, disposable instrument. Carefully push the Sil-Poxy into the hole and level it off with the stick (unofficially, you could probably do this with a finger, but make sure you read the SDS first before deciding to do this).

You'll notice that the Sil-Poxy is very shiny relative to the rest of the toy. To minimize the amount of shininess and excess patching, wipe off your popsicle stick (or use a new one) and gently swipe it over the excess, getting as close as you can to the patched hole while still leaving a little bit on the surrounding area to ensure it's sealed off. I personally will "pat" away excess with a bare finger (wiping off as necessary), but this is a personal risk I take and officially, I do not recommend it for those with sensitive skin, as uncured silicone can be an irritant.

Wait 24-48 hours before using or handling the toy, in order to give the Sil-Poxy ample time to bond.

Repairing Cuts or Slivers:

These are a little trickier to make look good, and depending on the location and severity, it may not be advisable to repair. I do not advise repairing cuts, especially horizontal ones, that occur on the insertable portion of any toy. A horizontal cut may cause a shaft to rip free from the base, causing the toy to become unsafe for anal (or, gods forbid, oral) use.

You will need to use your own judgement in situations like these. As a general rule, if the location and severity of the cut means that part of the toy could completely pop off the rest, do not keep any such toy for oral or anal use.

Good Repair Candidates:

• The entry/exit holes on penetrable toys, or the penetrable portions of hybrid toys
• Severed details on any other non-insertable area, such as the spikes on Anathema's base
• Shallow vertical slices even on the shaft, as long as it isn't at a weak point where it seems it could tear through

Clean your toy as directed earlier in the guide. Dispense a small amount of Sil-Poxy onto a popsicle stick or toothpick. If it is a simple cut, fill the cut completely with the Sil-Poxy and level it off using your tool of choice. "Pat" or wipe the surrounding area with your tool (clean it off first if it has Sil-Poxy still on it) if you wish to blend the patch job a little more smoothly.

For slivers or a severed detail, where none of the original silicone has actually been lost, use your disposable tool of choice to apply Sil-Poxy along the whole surface area of the sliver and the piece it's been separated from. Press the halves together, and use your tool to clean up the excess that comes out. You may wish to let this cure for around 15 minutes, then go back and apply more Sil-Poxy to fill anything that looks like it requires reinforcing.

Do not use or handle your toy for at least 24 hours after a repair, but preferably 48+ hours.

Repairing Minor Delamination:

Delamination is when a portion of the toy (usually a highlight, drip, or handpainted area) starts to peel away from the rest of the toy. This is a risk of all drip/highlight/painted techniques, since the tiniest amount of mold release may cause just enough interference to create a small bit of delamination. If it is just a single spot, it's quite fixable, but if the whole toy is peeling, discontinue use and report to us.

Extensive delamination, especially occurring in less than a year of owning a toy, should be reported to us as soon as the customer becomes aware of the problem. However, for minor delamination, especially on a non-insertable toy or non-insertable portion of a toy, it's an easy fix and is the suggested treatment for all handpainted toys that could potentially develop this issue.

Clean toy as instructed above. Dispense small amount of Sil-Poxy onto your disposable tool of choice, and smear thinly over the delaminated area. Cover only as much as is needed to seal the peeling edge, and then go slightly beyond that to ensure that it is secure. "Pat" or wipe the area as necessary to make the transition from patched area to the rest of the toy a bit neater. Repeat the application process after about 15 minutes if you find that your first layer needs reinforcement or more smoothing.

Do not use or handle your toy for at least 24 hours after a repair, but preferably 48+ hours.

Final Notes:

Sil-Poxy is pricey for the tiny amount you get, but you can keep a tube for much longer if you're careful with how you store it. Before screwing the lid back on, squeeze until there is a tiny bead emerging, and THEN screw the lid on tightly, making sure there is no residue on the threads that might interfere with the seal.

The reason for squeezing that little bit out before sealing is so that air doesn't get inside the tube. The bit you squeezed to the top may cure, but the next time you need to use your Sil-Poxy, you should be able to pick that little bit of cured rubber off and the rest of the contents should be ready to use.

In the event that a good portion of your tube gets sealed off and won't dispense, you can still use whatever's left inside as long as the tube is still soft and squishy, indicating the rest of the contents are still fine. Just use a toothpick or similar item to puncture a small hole in the squishy area of the tube and the stuff will come out. Of course, this is sort of a "Hail Mary" option. You might get away with this a couple times, but eventually the contents will receive enough oxygen that the whole tube will cure inside, at which point you can discard it.

Thermochromic toys have pigments that change their color depending on their temperature, meaning that you can observe such a toy beginning to change color simply from holding (or using) it. It's a neat effect, but it has special care requirements if you want to enjoy this color change for as long as possible.

• Do not use the boiling method to sanitize a toy with any thermochromic pigment in it. Use warm water and soap for regular care, and the bleach method for deeper cleaning if necessary.
• Do not leave exposed to UV light; keep them out of window sills, and maybe don't include them in lit displays, just in case.
• Do not leave/store toy in an area where it is at its "hot" activation temperature (somewhere around 80 degrees Fahrenheit for most of these pigments). Somewhere between 70 and 75F is preferable.

Any of the above conditions can prematurely cause the toy to "lock" into one color and stop changing back. This doesn't void any warranties or affect the usage of the toy whatsoever, as the toy's primary function hasn't been compromised. Even with perfect care, it is possible that thermochromic pigments have a limited life span, so please keep that in mind when purchasing a toy that uses them.

I use the words "pigment freckle" or "beauty mark" somewhat interchangeably to refer to any visible fleck of pigment that stands out on the toy. They usually come in two basic flavors:

Tangible: An easily-feelable cluster of pigment that is either sticking out of the surface, or is so close that you do not need to press hard to feel it. This is almost always a flop and will be either be listed as such, or I will nick it out of the toy and patch it if need be, before listing it as a flop.

Intangible: A fleck that can be seen, but not felt. This is the vast majority, and usually it does not warrant concern. I may or may not mention these in the listing; when they're particularly obvious/in a spot where I think someone might be inclined to ask about them, I may take an extra photo showing the spot in question just to be extra safe.

If you receive a toy with an "undocumented" freckle, and it isn't tangible, this is normal and does not warrant safety concerns. My general rule of thumb is: if I can't feel it, and if I can't see it (or can barely see it) when the toy is held at arm's length, even with my head lamp on, then it does not require disclosure.

Under no circumstances should you pick or scrape at freckles "just to check" unless otherwise directed; in doing so, you can relatively easily create a breach in the silicone that would not otherwise occur under intended use situations. Refunds cannot be given in this scenario, as the item has been damaged by the customer.

Anything that doesn't easily come off with a nice warm, soapy bath is highly unlikely to be dislodged in use and will be fine if left alone. The fleck you're seeing is generally just a larger-than-average bit of mica, and it can be in a different color than you expect; you might be surprised that your pastel blue toy has a random dark blue or silvery dot, but this is actually normal and expected. Pastel colors are a blend of white pigment with a darker pigment, and since mica particles vary in size, sometimes you'll get one that stands out simply because it's a couple microns bigger than its neighbors.

"But what if a fleck DOES come out? What then?"

If you accidentally picked it open, or if it turned out to be closer to the surface than originally thought, a single emerging pigment freckle isn't the end of your toy. This is an easy fix — check out this page of the FAQ to learn how to repair a toy.

Depending on the location, you could choose to carefully excise the spot instead, but this is going to be a pretty unsightly fix compared to a simple fill with Sil-Poxy.

In most cases, a refund can't be offered for this type of damage; it's all but impossible for me to tell whether the freckle emerged under intended usage, or if it was "helped along" by someone trying to vigorously rub it off the toy.

"Is there any color that's guaranteed not to have freckles?"

Nope. It can happen with liquid pigments too, not just mica. I currently filter every pigment I use, which means that they must be extremely fine to pass the filter. Just because a fleck is visible, does not mean it's too big, or even that it's necessarily bigger than its neighbors!

Mica pigment is like superfine sand, so if you're looking close enough, you'll often see the particles. This is especially true if there's high contrast between the toy's composite colors, or if a single invading particle just so happens to be much bolder/more contrasting than everything else (which is why you might hone in on a single tiny black dot on an otherwise pastel toy).

There's no way to completely eradicate this phenomenon, so I will not pretend that I can, nor do I offer refunds if your toy has a couple spots less than the size of a grain of sand here and there. This is considered a minor aesthetic anomaly, not a safety concern.

You might have received Soba the Familiar! For more information on this rare, special gift, check out the Soba Project page.

If it isn't Soba, it could be something entirely new, or something that has been retired. I'm known to occasionally put random gifts into packages, when I have items sitting around that didn't quite make the quality cut to be sold, but could still brighten someone's day.

There's a few possible reasons I might not respond to a message.

• It's the weekend, a major holiday, or after 5 PM EST, and I might not be "in the office". I try, but often fail, to separate work and personal life.
• Your question is already answered in this FAQ, listing details, model catalog, or the Terms of Service
• You're inquiring about learning how to make toys; I can't advise on this.
• Your message is unrelated to the business/is not an order inquiry
• You sent me unsolicited nudes, in-use pictures, or other inappropriate and irrelevant messages
• Your e-mail got caught in a spam filter. If none of the above applies to your message, it might just be this issue, so try again!

Although I do love to receive random compliments on my work, and am flattered that some people just want to talk to me for fun, my work e-mail and social media account are for business only, so I may decline to engage in friendly conversations. After all, I'm not working when I'm talking, and most people would be happiest if I keep working!

While I may occasionally comment on the work of my fellow Donglords, or on an issue particular to our community, I have a zero tolerancy policy for being dragged into unrelated discourse or drama. If necessary, individuals clogging my feed or bombarding my DMs with dramatic messages (and/or demands for me to comment on an issue) will be blocked.

[Updated 2/6/2023]

Yes. About 99% of the time, a Twitter block is equal to a shop ban. If I haven't enforced the ban and a blocked user has been able to buy items from me, this is only because I haven't been able to confirm a link between the offending Twitter account and a real person. That, or they are evading detection through various means.

I only use the Block function on people I want nothing to do with, and usually for hostile and/or illegal behavior, whether it is against myself, other makers, or community members. It isn't easy to accidentally block a person, but you may contact me via e-mail to confirm if you want to be certain that the Twitter block was not in error.

Just be aware that if I have actually banned you, I may decline to comment further and will only confirm the ban, nothing more. The types of people that I am forced to ban are not the sort that are likely to accept an explanation or alter their behavior, and therefore, I will not engage them in conversation/debate.

[Updated 2/7/2023]

I might! However, please do not be discouraged if I'm not interested in your design. It's not personal, I'm just very particular about what I add to my lineup. The design might be completely sound and beautiful, but simply not be my preferred aesthetic.

It's also possible that I may love a concept but want to alter it to fit a specific character I have in mind. I'm known to pick up promising projects and make sweeping changes if necessary, so if that doesn't sit well with you, you will probably want to work with a different company who wants the design as-is.

These are the requirements if I'm going to buy a design:

• You must be the original creator, or be able to put me in contact with the original creator, and both of you must sign contracts when transferring the rights to me
• I won't engage in a bidding war with other makers, nor will I try to haggle with you, so if you are offering a design to me, I will want to see your full, fixed price up front. I will either accept or decline outright, you won't be harassed to lower your price.
• No restrictions on edits (by me) to the design. I need to have the ability to edit it freely, otherwise it's a lease, not a sale.
• I must have sole, permanent ownership. The design cannot be given to any other entities, private or public, either before OR after you sell it to me. I will only buy a "secondhand" design if the previous sole producer is permanently giving up rights to it, has ceased production, and will sign the contract.
• The design cannot be overtly feral (meaning, no real-world animals). It can be non-anthropomorphic, but must be a clearly fantasy creature.
• You are willing to forfeit all media related to the design (such as associated character art, which may be of an original species you created). Don't offer something from an original species if you intend to retain rights TO that species.
• It cannot be explicitly based on/"inspired by" the intellectual property of any other type of creator, whether they're a maker or not. Even an "open species" in the furry fandom is not permitted. This is especially true of other properties belonging to notoriously litigious megacorporations. There's some wiggle room with regards to "parody" and the like, but this will be a case-by-case situation.

If all of those requirements are met, here's what I typically offer in exchange for a design:

• Your full asking price, upfront. I don't do royalties, so make sure you've set the price you want and don't lowball yourself!
• At least one custom cast of the final design. The custom design must fall within the realm of things I regularly produce; I will not be opening infinite options, especially not for techniques or materials I don't utilize often (EG Glow in the Dark or complex painted details). You can show me a concept and I'll tell you what methods I can use to get as close as possible, but please prepare to be flexible about altering your concept.
• An equivalent amount of "Store Credit" so you can choose from any other toy design I offer, if you wish to opt out of a custom toy of your design for whatever reason. Some folks can't or don't want to use their own designs, or might not like my alterations, so this way you can pick an alternative.
• Any merch featuring this character, within approximately a year of the design being released. Guardians, stickers, Dicklets, etc. Not guaranteed unless stated by our contract, but I like to make "Gift Packs" of stuff like this and will often do it for fun even years after I buy a design, as long as I still have contact with the artist.

Anything offered above may be rendered void if I am unable to contact you for any reason.

Please also be aware that when it comes to custom casts of your design, I will not be creating the toy's size lineup according to your size preferences; you will be asked to choose from the available sizes at launch. If none of the sizes appeal, you will be offered "Store Credit" instead so you can choose a different toy to customize, from whatever selection is available at that time, if desired.

Considering the workshop is located on a farm and we have a ton of different animals, yes, you should be aware that allergens (and sometimes very tiny critters like gnats) can and do make their way into the shop. No animals are permitted in the workspace, but that doesn't stop dust, dander, and other fluff from drifting in.

I wear a designated set of work clothes when pouring or cleaning toys that reduces the likelihood of transferring allergens, but it's by no means perfect. This is NOT a sterile environment, it's a home office probably similar to any other person's. I don't have industrial cleaning equipment, sealed rooms, or specialized hazmat clothing.

I (and by extension, Phoenixflame Creations, LLC) am not responsible for any medical issues or emergencies that may arise from the purchase and use of my products. I strive to keep my work surfaces clean, but this is not a medical facility, nor are these medical devices. I'm not a qualified physician, cannot instruct the customer on safety precautions, and cannot advise them on whether or not to purchase. It is up to the individual to assess their own level of risk and purchase accordingly.

Animals aside, there are a number of chemicals and other production supplies that could conceivably be allergens (as well as variables within the pigments used to color toys), though it's unlikely they'll be directly present in any quantity worthy of note. I use dish soap to give the toys their initial cleaning, but it's by no means a deep sanitation process, and you should wash/sanitize the toy to the degree you are most comfortable with, before you use the toy.

Just one. So if I ever say "we" or "our", it's kinda like the "Royal We"! I, Sarah, am responsible for all customer service, printing, molding, pouring, trimming — so on and so forth. I have exactly zero helpers. Whenever I restrict options, stock quantity, etc., it's for a very good reason: I have to make sure that whatever I offer to customers, I must be able to complete by myself within a reasonable time frame.

Before I answer that, please bear in mind that for legal reasons, my toys are considered novelty items only. They are not medical devices, and are not intended to treat medical conditions. I am not responsible for mishandling by the customer, nor am I responsible for any medical bills or injury that may arise from usage of my toys. I am also not qualified to give medical advice, so if you have any problems, please seek professional assistance.

With that out of the way, "intended usage" more or less means, "If you wouldn't do it to actual genitals, don't do it to your toys." So don't dig your nails into them or pluck at the silicone, don't chew on them, don't grab and pull them like a Stretch Armstrong or try to compress them into weird shapes. Don't crush them under heavy objects, either.

(If there's someone who's into that stuff, then apply these guidelines to the average person who does not want these things to be done to their genitals.)

My toys can take (and give) quite a pounding, but the material is resilient, not invincible. Surprisingly minor things can damage silicone, especially SuperSoft, which can tear if you pull at a stress point that wouldn't ordinarily be affected if you were using it "as intended" in your toothless sexual orifice of choice. If you want your toys to last as long as possible, be gentle with them.

In short, no. The nature of these items and the conditions to which they are exposed are too variable for me to offer a warranty. Penetrables in particular are subject to rips, purely due to the softness of the silicone and the type of strain applied to them. In general, I cannot offer any sort of refund or replacement for toys that become damaged, as it's all but impossible for me to tell whether the damage came from a manufacturing flaw, user maintenance (or lack thereof), or from something in the toy's environment.

However, there are some rare cases where I may be able to determine that the toy likely has a manufacturing defect, and in such cases, I may offer a replacement at my sole discretion. Replacements will NOT be custom toys (they will be treated as "Artisan's Choice"), and will most likely not resemble the original color scheme closely, if at all. If a model is no longer in production or its size has been altered since the original purchase, the nearest equivalent product will be offered in its place, or the customer will be allowed to choose a product of equal or approximate value.

It's honestly kind of chaotic and changes from week to week depending on what's going on at the time. Sometimes a bunch of molds will start churning out flawed product and I'll have to alter my workflow for a while to divert my time and effort into a different task. Generally, though, the production process looks a little like this:

1. Clear table of last round's shipping materials and prepare space for Production. Pour a batch of product (however many I have molds available for, or whatever I want to be in that one specific batch), wait for cure.
2. Pull products from molds and perform Quality Check #1. This is a cursory check for the big obvious issues. The toy receives its trim job if it passes QC1 and goes into the bin for safe storage.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all silicone on hand is used up.
4. Put away molds and production supplies. Lay out all toys in preparation for photo shoot. Perform Quality Check #2, looking for less-obvious flops, and note anything that needs a Phlop Flop Photo.
5. Set up photo booth and take all photographs at once.
6. Wash all the toys, perform Quality Check #3 while setting them out to dry, to make sure that any debris acquired from being in the photo booth is in fact NOT part of the toy. Take additional photos if passable flops are found, discard toy if Critical flops are found.
7. Begin editing all photos while toys dry off. Write some listings if time permits.
8. Immediately bag and seal toys as soon as they're dry, so there's less chance for fuzz to work its way into the package. Perform Final Quality Check as toy is being bagged, and ensure that nothing unwanted snuck in with the toy.
9. Finish writing listings. Once that's done, the drop can be posted as soon as possible afterward.
10. Store all bagged items and reclaim table space for shipping materials.

As you can see, I don't even have the counterspace prepared for a photo session until the middle of the process, which is a big part of why I don't usually offer preview photos (as explained earlier in the FAQ). And because there are at least four major quality checks, there are several opportunities for a toy to be removed from the sale pile, so I cannot definitively answer questions like, "How many of X Model are in the drop?" until I've actually finished ALL inspections.

By that point, I'm in the middle of writing the listings, and I don't usually allot much time (generally only a matter of hours) between "writing listings" and "posting the drop", which is why I will decline to sit on social media answering questions about the drop contents.

Firstly, I want to reassure everyone that bans are extremely rare. As in, there are fewer than five actively-enforced bans as of the time I'm writing this (2/6/2023). My business has existed since 2016.

If you got banned, it wasn't because I was feeling a little irritable. You earned it. The following lists are not comprehensive, but should give you an idea of what I do (and don't) consider ban-worthy.

If you believe I have made an error, you may e-mail me for confirmation through the Contact page (do not ask me on my social media posts, this is not an appropriate place to contest a ban), but please be aware that I am unlikely to explain ban reasons in detail. As a business, everything I say can and will be used for drama by the types of folks I'm likely to ban, and I'm well aware of that.

Some Reasons I May Ban:

• Customer went nuclear on social media rather than work out an issue with me (or another maker) in private.
• Spreading misinformation and/or libelous accusations regarding my business, or that of another person I trust.
• Person is publicly engaged in illegal and/or deeply immoral activities. Zoophiles, pedophiles, groups advocating for violence/hatred and the like are unwelcome here.
• Attempts to drag me into political/social commentary, or general drama. "Sir, this is a Dildo Depot."
• A case or question has been resolved, but the person keeps pressing for a different resolution, particularly one that goes against policy. This is considered harassment; any repeated, unsolicited contact that is hostile or inappropriate can get you banned.
• Someone is stealing designs from myself or other makers, or has extremely questionable ethics and practices.
• An individual or a mob of people is attempting to pressure me into something, and/or is being hostile. There is no case in which you should be hostile with me, even if you disagree with my policies or don't find a solution to be "perfect".
• You are a minor. If this is applicable, you shouldn't even be on this page. Stop putting adults (and yourself) at risk by invading our spaces. And no, bans on minors will not be lifted when they are of legal age. If you don't respect the rules now and are willing to put others at risk for your own satisfaction, I don't expect you will have any more respect later.
• If you'll excuse my language, "s#%^-stirring". I can tell when someone is "just asking questions" with the intent to start drama. If I decline to answer these bait questions and you start making accusations about me, a person you do not actually know, then refer to previous entry about "general drama". Expect legal action as well as a ban if you sling libel.
• Someone's sending me creepy messages, nudes, unsolicited business offers, requests for free product etc.
• Chargebacks. These are a last resort, to be used ONLY against a true scammer. Against anyone else, it's theft, and can do major damage to a business.
• Customer does not abide by the TOS and/or repeatedly submits complaints for issues that fall under the category of Unreasonable Expectations for a Handmade Product.
• Someone is buying my toys for the explicit purpose of resale, copying, and/or "scalping".
• Exploitative customer behavior, such as conjuring "problems" with toys in hopes of receiving freebies or unwarranted refunds.

Things I Do Not Ban For:

• Being moderately annoyed. Or even considerably annoyed.
• My feelings being hurt. Yes, of course it would hurt if you said a pour or design of mine is ugly. But that's an opinion and isn't libelous —whereas making claims about something being unsafe, malicious, etc can be, if it is not provably and objectively true— so it's not inherently ban-worthy unless you are bombarding my feed or e-mail with hurtful statements just to be a bully.
• Someone having opinions, tastes, or political positions I don't like. As long as it isn't illegal, calling for violence, or libelous, I don't care about your personal opinions as long as they stay on your own page and aren't slathered on my media posts.
• Hearsay ("So-and-So Told You to Ban Me/Lied About Me!"). I issue bans at my own discretion, based on evidence I have collected personally. Nobody orders me around or convinces me to ban people.
• Fair criticism of my practices/work. This is a slippery slope, though. It's easy for "criticism" to become an attack that can do damage to a business' reputation—whether mine or someone else's—and if this line is crossed, it can become ban-worthy. Don't hide behind "it's just criticism!" if you get called out for wild speculation that can hurt any business.

I don't like to discourage the pursuit of knowledge, nor do I like to come off as abrasive or gatekeeping, but there are many reasons I cannot do this, and the main one is that I don't have the time.

The other is that typically, the people asking have minimal or no relationship with myself, and asking someone for this type of information, apropos of nothing, is like marching up to the local Mom and Pop restaurant to demand their secret family recipe. It shouldn't be surprising if most makers share my feelings, and for that reason, I do not recommend asking strangers to divulge information at no benefit to themselves. It's an unusually friendly community, but that doesn't mean anyone is obligated to help a would-be competitor.

The resources are out there already; plenty of makers have put enough information out publicly that you should not need to risk anyone's ire by soliciting information they might not be comfortable giving.

You can learn practically everything you need to know from the same place you'll be buying your silicone (don't be afraid to ask their customer service, they're familiar with this industry and can suggest materials that work for your situation). Conveniently, they also have everything you would need to begin molding and casting, including pigments designed specifically for silicone.