GITD: Glow in the Dark. After being charged under a strong light (ideally sunlight), a GITD toy will emit a glow for varying amounts of time according to the type and quantity of pigment, as well as duration of charge. Certain colors glow weakly for a short time, others might glow for hours. These colors also usually flouresce brightly under blacklights. Do not store GITD toys in direct sunlight, as it may have a negative impact on both the color of the silicone and the ability of the pigment to glow. GITD is non-toxic and not radioactive. No longer in use in my products, unless otherwise stated, due to complications with the flop rate of these pigments.
UV: Generally neon colors that flouresce under blacklight. They do not glow when not under blacklight, but they're still pretty bright! Non-toxic, and not radioactive, even if it looks like it came straight out of a kaiju movie.
Thermochromic: A type of pigment that changes color at certain temperatures. Toys with this pigment should NEVER be boiled, left in sunlight, or left in any place at or above their activation temperature, or the color will "burn" and lock into one state instead of changing back and forth. This won't impact the usage of the toy and isn't eligible for refund. Non-toxic.
Cosmetic Pigment: Non-toxic pigments which are rated specifically for use on the human body, usually found in makeup, soap, or bath bombs. These make up the bulk of our pigment library.
Chameleon/Duochrome: Pigments that color-shift depending on lighting and angle. The shift may be very obvious, or hardly detectable. May be mentioned only because it can cause a misunderstanding that the listing image does not match the photo, due to the customer's lighting conditions and viewing angle being different from the photo booth.
Interference: A mica pigment that can be added to other pigments in order to create a sheen of a specific color; these pigments are colorless on their own. IE "Interference Blue" will change black-pigmented silicone into something that appears extremely dark blue when light strikes it.
Glitter/Sparkle: Flashy mica particles which are larger than typical pigment particles, but not as large as craft glitter. We do not use craft-grade glitter due to the risk of it emerging from a toy. May be mistaken for "dirt" because at certain angles, the particles are dark. When the item is turned, the particle will shimmer.
Metallic/Pearlescent: These terms are used somewhat interchangeably to refer to non-flat colors that have a sheen to them and will sometimes form interesting "folds" and patterns even on a solid-color toy. "Metallic" is often used for toys with bolder flash and larger particle sizes, while "Pearlescent" usually refers to a softer, subtle sparkle that might not be as obvious.
Flop: A toy that has imperfections which may alter the appearance, care requirements, longevity, or performance of the item, but will not render it unusable or unsafe if properly cared for. Generally discounted according to the severity of the issue. See the FAQ question specifically about flops for more information.
Notes: If a listing has "Notes" on it, these are just a bit of extra information about a particular toy or model, to alert customers to a characteristic of the toy that might be mistaken for a flop. Some molds have consistent minor imperfections that do not receive the Flop designation or discount, or the notes may alert you to special care requirements.
Painting/Painted Details: Refers to the process by which thickened silicone is "painted" inside of a mold to achieve color patterns that are not possible via the usual means of pouring in the liquid silicone. This is NOT the same as painting with actual paint, and should never be performed on a toy that has already been cured. Anyone who is adding on extra paint to a toy after pulling it is using techniques that are neither durable, nor safe for use as a sex toy.
House Color: A set, named color pattern which may recur during certain holidays, seasons, or events. They do have some variation due to the nature of the material, but any two toys poured in the same House Color will use an identical color set. The same colors go in, but something else might come out!
Natural Color: A set, named color pattern specific to a particular model, IE "Skoll's Natural". The color might be found on other models, but is most consistent on the model for which it was designed.
Multi-Firmness or Dual Firmness: The toy's parts are different firmnesses, IE it has a shaft in 0050/Medium and a base in 0030/Soft. Check the listing to make sure which part is which firmness.
Color Pattern Terms
Fade: A gradient between two or more colors. An "ideal" fade is a smooth transition from one color into another, but silicone doesn't always cooperate in such a way, so a faded toy may have some spots that don't blend completely.
Marble: Two or more colors in a swirled or blotchy pattern. The exact appearance of a marble varies tremendously and is strongly affected by firmness and color. They are not possible to replicate precisely, as the patterns fall differently every time.
Underbelly Marble: A specific type of marble where the colors are not evenly mixed into each other, and each of its composite colors are distributed in a more dominant fashion on either side of the toy (IE a topside that is predominantly black, while the opposite side is predominantly white).
Transitional Marble: A specific type of marble which gradually transitions from one color to another, similar to a fade, but without a smooth blend. Sometimes a toy poured as a marble will come out looking like a fade by accident, but typically there is an obvious difference.
Solid: A toy which is a single color.
Split: A coloration in which the base and shaft of a toy are different colors, or where the toy is poured in clean "bars" or layers. A "true" split has a totally straight, clean line between the colors, but because this is a riskier and more time-consuming type of pour, you will more commonly see a "messy" split that is safer and more secure.
Highlight/Wash: A layer of pigmented silicone which is used to coat the inside of the mold before finishing the rest of the pour. Results in a toy with accentuated details which might otherwise be less visible.
Drip: A variant of the Highlight technique which covers only part of the toy instead of the entirety, so that it looks like a color is dripping from the tip of the toy, down toward the base. Often used to simulate a "sloppy seconds" look on a toy.
Pour (used as a noun): In its raw form, silicone has a honey-like consistency and only achieves a solid state after Parts A and B have been thoroughly mixed. Because this liquidy substance is poured from a cup into the toy mold, people will often refer to a particular toy or pattern as a "pour". Ex: "Wow, that rainbow pour is incredible!"
Mold: The object that liquid silicone is poured into, which holds it in the appropriate shape until the liquid cures into a solid. May be mentioned because if a specific mold has an inherent flaw, then ALL copies of a toy pulled from this mold will have that same flaw. May also be mentioned because makers have a finite number of each mold on their shelves, and can only pour as many toys as they have molds available.
Mold Release: In order to remove a silicone toy from a silicone mold, the mold must be sprayed with Mold Release, or else the mold and the toy will be permanently fused. When ordering from any shop, it's possible you might receive an item that still has residual mold release on it. This is a major reason why all new toys should be washed before you use them.
Cure: The process by which silicone changes from a liquid to solid state. A toy has to be cured for a certain amount of time before it is solid enough to be removed from its mold.
Cure Inhibition: What happens when the process of curing is interrupted (sometimes permanently) or slowed by something, such as an incompatible material that acts as a contaminant.
3D Print/Printing: Refers to the process by which the original sculpture of a toy is produced by a machine, may be mentioned because the process is imperfect and a final product might show signs of its origins as a machine-created object. This does NOT refer to the products you are purchasing directly; there is no such thing as a 3D printed silicone toy, and no 3D printed object should ever be directly used for sexual purposes. Makers create a mold of a 3D printed object, then pour liquid silicone into the mold in order to create the final product.
Post-Processing: Raw 3D prints usually have imperfections that require sanding and coating to achieve the smooth finish that is desired for the final product. This is what that stage of refinement is called.
Delamination: The separation of silicone from itself; can manifest as "peeling", and usually occurs along obvious, clean lines. This is an error that can occur in highlighted, painted, or split toys (or toys with silicone inclusions) if something goes wrong in production and each part of the pour does not fuse completely. This can be a serious issue, particularly if it occurs along a split. Any toy with delamination at a split point (IE shaft/base), or along the usable surface, should not be used and the vendor should be informed.